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Noshaq
Mountain in Afghanistan and Pakistan
Mountain in Afghanistan and Pakistan
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| name | Noshaq |
| native_name | |
| other_name | *Noshak*, *Nowshakh* |
| photo | Noszak.jpg |
| elevation_m | 7492 |
| elevation_ref | |
| Ranked 52nd | |
| prominence_m | 2024 |
| listing | Country high point |
| Ultra | |
| country | |
| state_type | Province |
| state | |
| range | Hindu Kush |
| map | Afghanistan#Khyber Pakhtunkhwa#Pakistan |
| map_caption | Location in Afghanistan##Location in Pakistan |
| label_position | left |
| coordinates | |
| first_ascent | 17 August 1960 by Toshiaki Sakai and Goro Iwatsubo (Japan) |
| easiest_route | glacier/snow climb |
Ranked 52nd Ultra
Noshaq, also called Noshakh or Nowshakh (, , ), is the highest mountain in Afghanistan and the second highest in the Hindu Kush mountain range after Tirich Mir at 7492 m. Lying on the border of Afghanistan and Pakistan, the north and west sides of the mountain are in Afghanistan whereas the south and eastern sides are in Pakistan. It is the westernmost 7000 m peak in the world.
The easiest access to Noshaq is from the village of Qazideh in the Wakhan District of Badakhshan Province in Afghanistan. Foreigners are required to have an Afghan visa, including a special permission letter from Afghanistan's Ministry of Information and Culture.
Climbing history
Noshaq main was first climbed by a Japanese expedition on 17 August 1960, led by Professor Yajiro Sakato. Other members of the expedition were Goro Iwatsubo and Toshiaki Sakai. The climb followed the normal Afghanistan approach, the West ridge from the Qazideh Glacier.
Noshaq East, Noshaq Central and Noshaq West were first climbed in 1963 by Austrians Dr. Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischenger.
The Tiroler Hindukusch-Ski-Expedition of Akademischer Alpenklub Innsbruck (Austria) made the first ski descent from the summit of Noshaq in 1970. The famous meteorologist Karl Gabl was a member of the team.
The first winter ascent was 13 February 1973 by Tadeusz Piotrowski and Andrzej Zawada, members of a Polish expedition, via the north face. It was the first winter climb of any 7000 m peak and is the only winter ascent of this mountain.
From the 1978 Saur Revolution and the decades of wars that followed, the mountain was very difficult to access because of political turmoil in the region. In 2011, National Geographic noted that the trail to the summit was again accessible to climbers, with hopes of opening the area up for tourism.
References
References
- Sakato, Yajiro. (1960). "Ascent of Noshaq". [[Himalayan Journal]].
- Sakato, Yajiro. (1961). "Japanese Himalayan Expeditions: ASCENT OF NOSHAQ".
- (1964). "Noshaq".
- (1971). "Noshaq Ski Expedition".
- Schwabe, Ulrich. (1972). "Noshaq on skis". [[Alpine Journal]].
- (1974). "Noshaq, First Winter Ascent".
- (11 August 2011). "Grant winners summit highest Afghanistan peak". Australian Geographic.
- (10 August 2011). "Afghanistan's Highest Mountain Reopened to Climbers".
- "Afghan Noshaq expedition".
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