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Eight-thousander

Mountain peaks of over 8,000 meters in elevation


Mountain peaks of over 8,000 meters in elevation

The eight-thousanders are 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) with summits that exceed 8000 m in elevation above sea level and are sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks as measured by topographic prominence. There is no formally agreed-upon definition of prominence, however, and at times the UIAA has considered whether the list of 8,000-metre peaks should be expanded to 20 peaks by including the major satellite peaks of the canonical 14 eight-thousanders. All of the Earth's eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone, where atmospheric oxygen pressure is insufficient to sustain human life for extended periods of time.

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were first summited by expedition climbers in the summer season (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964); from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter season (the first to be summited in winter was Mount Everest in 1980, and the last was K2 in 2021). As measured by a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I, with one death (climber or climber support) for every three summiters, followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat (each with one death for every four to five summiters), and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga (each with one death for every six to seven summiters).

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer, became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, though with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho set a speed record by climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022.

Climbing history

First ascents

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, died in an avalanche.

The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 using expedition climbing techniques as part of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition.

The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980; all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders.

Only two climbers have completed the first ascent of more than one eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl (Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak, in 1953 and 1957) and Kurt Diemberger (Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri, in 1957 and 1960). Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first-ascent of an eight-thousander. The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains. Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat), while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak), Krzysztof Wielicki (Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse) and Jerzy Kukuczka (Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, and Annapurna I).

All 14

On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat.

On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders. In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.

The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband on 11 May 2017. The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.

On 22 May 2024, Nepali guide Kami Rita summitted Everest for the 30th time (a record for Everest), also becoming the first-ever person to climb an eight-thousander 41 times. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice. He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.

On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record of 6 months and 6 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with the use of supplementary oxygen. On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a new speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with supplementary oxygen.

Deadliest

Eight
thousanderFrom 1950 to March 2012Climber
death rate
Total
ascentsTotal
deathsDeaths as
% of ascents
Everest56562233.9%1.52%
K28009612%
Kangchenjunga2434016%3.00%
Lhotse461132.8%1.03%
Makalu361318.6%1.63%
Cho Oyu3138441.4%0.64%
Dhaulagiri I4486915.4%2.94%
Manaslu661659.8%2.77%
Nanga Parbat3356820.3%
Annapurna I1916131.9%4.05%
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)334298.7%
Broad Peak404215.2%
Gasherbrum II930212.3%
Shishapangma302258.3%

The eight-thousanders are some of the world's deadliest mountains. The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality (or death rate) is high. Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate (i.e. broad and narrow) that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest.

  • Broad death rate: The first metric is the ratio of total deaths on the mountain to successful climbers summiting over a given period. Using consistent data from 1950 to 2012, mountaineering statistician Eberhard Jurgalski (see table) used this metric to show Annapurna is the deadliest mountain (31.9%), followed by K2 (26.5%), Nanga Parbat (20.3%), Dhaulagiri (15.4%) and Kangchenjunga (14.1%). Cho Oyu was the safest at 1.4%.
  • Narrow death rate: The drawback of the first metric is that it includes the deaths of any support climbers or climbing sherpas that went above base camp in assisting the climb; therefore, rather than being the probability that a climber will die attempting to summit an eight-thousander, it is more akin to the total human cost in getting a climber to the summit. In the Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the climber (or member) "Death Rate" is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp (calculated for 1950 to 2009), and is closer to a true probability of death (see table below). The data is only for the Nepalese Himalaya and therefore does not include K2 or Nanga Parbat. HDB estimates the probability of death for a climber attempting the summit of an eight-thousander is still highest for Annapurna I (4%), followed by Kangchenjunga (3%) and Dhaulagiri (3%); the safest is still Cho Oyu at 0.6%.

The tables from the HDB for eight-thousanders also show that the death rate of climbers for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period, i.e. climbing is becoming safer for the climbers attempting the summit.

List of first ascents

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021).

MountainFirst ascentFirst winter ascentNameHeightProm.CountryDateSummiter(s)DateSummiter(s)
Everest8849 m8849 mNepal Nepal
China China29 May 1953
NZL Edmund Hillary17 February 1980
POL Krzysztof Wielicki
POL Leszek Cichy
K28611 m4020 mPakistan Pakistan
China China31 July 1954ITA Achille Compagnoni
ITA Lino Lacedelli
16 January 2021NPLUK Nirmal Purja
Kangchenjunga8586 m3922 mNepal Nepal
India India25 May 1955UK George Band
UK Joe Brown
on [British expedition](1955-british-kangchenjunga-expedition)11 January 1986POL Krzysztof Wielicki
POL Jerzy Kukuczka
Lhotse8516 m610 mNepal Nepal
PRC China18 May 1956CH Fritz Luchsinger
CH Ernst Reiss31 December 1988POL Krzysztof Wielicki
Makalu8485 m2378 mNepal Nepal
PRC China15 May 1955FRA Jean Couzy
FRA Lionel Terray
on [French expedition](1955-french-makalu-expedition)9 February 2009ITA Simone Moro
KAZ Denis Urubko
Cho Oyu8188 m2344 mNepal Nepal
PRC China19 October 1954AUT
NEP Pasang Dawa Lama
AUT Herbert Tichy12 February 1985POL Maciej Berbeka
POL Maciej Pawlikowski
Dhaulagiri I8167 m3357 mNepal Nepal13 May 1960AUT Kurt Diemberger
FRG
NEP Nawang Dorje
NEP Nima Dorje
CH Ernst Forrer
CH Albin Schelbert21 January 1985POL Andrzej Czok
POL Jerzy Kukuczka
Manaslu8163 m3092 mNepal Nepal9 May 1956JPN
NEP Gyalzen Norbu12 January 1984POL Maciej Berbeka
POL Ryszard Gajewski
Nanga Parbat8125 m4608 mPakistan Pakistan3 July 1953AUT Hermann Buhl
on [German–Austrian expedition](1953-german-austrian-nanga-parbat-expedition)26 February 2016PAK Muhammad Ali Sadpara
ITA Simone Moro
SPA
Annapurna I8091 m2984 mNepal Nepal3 June 1950FRA Maurice Herzog
FRA Louis Lachenal
3 February 1987POL Jerzy Kukuczka
POL Artur Hajzer
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)8080 m2155 mPakistan Pakistan
China China5 July 1958USA Andrew Kauffman
USA Pete Schoening9 March 2012POL Adam Bielecki
POL
Broad Peak8051 m1701 mPakistan Pakistan
China China9 June 1957AUT Fritz Wintersteller
AUT Marcus Schmuck
AUT Kurt Diemberger
AUT Hermann Buhl
5 March 2013POL Maciej Berbeka
POL Adam Bielecki
POL
Gasherbrum II8034 m1524 mPakistan Pakistan
China China7 July 1956AUT Fritz Moravec
AUT
AUT2 February 2011ITA Simone Moro
KAZ Denis Urubko
USA Cory Richards
Shishapangma8027 m2897 mChina China2 May 1964PRC Xu Jing
PRC Chang Chun-yen
PRC Wang Fuzhou
PRC Chen San
PRC Cheng Tien-liang
PRC Wu Tsung-yue
PRC Sodnam Doji
PRC Migmar Trashi
PRC Doji
PRC Yonten14 January 2005POL Piotr Morawski
ITA Simone Moro

List of climbers of all 14

There is no single undisputed source or arbitrator for verified ascents of Himalayan eight-thousander peaks.

Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.

Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database, is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas. Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com, and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.

Verified ascents

The "No O2" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

OrderOrder
(No O2)NamePeriod climbing
eight-thousandersBornAgeNationality
11Reinhold Messner1970–1986194442Italy Italian
2Jerzy Kukuczka1979–1987194839Poland Polish
32Erhard Loretan1982–1995195936Switzerland Swiss
4Carlos Carsolio1985–1996196233Mexico Mexican
5Krzysztof Wielicki1980–1996195046Poland Polish
63Juanito Oiarzabal1985–1999195643Spain Spanish
7Sergio Martini1983–2000194951Italy Italian
8Park Young-seok1993–2001196338South Korea Korean
9Um Hong-gil1988–20011960{{cite weblast = EverestNews2004.comfirst = News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44)
104Alberto Iñurrategi1991–2002{{cite weblast = Kukuxumusufirst = Spanish Newstitle = Alberto Iñurrategi achieves his fourteenth "eight thousand meters"
11Han Wang-yong1994–2003196637South Korea Korean
125{{cite webpublisher = Mounteverest.netquote = *...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen.*title = Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Ed Viesturs and Christian Kuntnerurl = http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1332access-date = 2008-11-30
136{{cite weblast = Mounteverest.netquote = *Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers – becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen.*title = The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntseurl = http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17691access-date = 2008-11-30
147{{cite webpublisher = Mounteverest.netquote = *...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.*title = The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continueurl = http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17248access-date = 2008-11-30
158publisher = PlanetMountain.comtitle = Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaksurl= http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36767access-date = 2009-05-18Denis Urubko
16Ralf Dujmovits1990–2009196147Germany German
179Veikka Gustafsson1993–2009196841Finland Finnish
18Andrew Lock1993–2009196148Australia Australian
1910João Garcia1993–2010196743Portugal Portuguese
20Piotr Pustelnik1990–2010195158Poland Polish
21Edurne Pasaban2001–2010197336Spain Spanish
22Abele Blancurl=http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/download.html?func=fileinfo&id=155title=Climbers - First 14, updated table on 8000ers.compublisher=8000ers.comaccess-date=2014-02-21}}195456ITA Italian
23Mingma Sherpa2000–2011197833Nepal Nepali
2411Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner1998–2011197040AUT Austrian
252001–2011197536KAZ Kazakhstani
2612Maxut Zhumayev2001–2011197734KAZ Kazakhstani
272000–2011196150South Korea Korean
2813Mario Panzeri1988–2012196448Italy Italian
url=http://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXZZO41829260V20C12A5000000/title=日本人初の快挙、8000m峰14座登頂 竹内洋岳date=26 May 2012publisher=Nikkei.comaccess-date=2014-02-21}}Hirotaka Takeuchi [ja]1995–2012197141Japan Japanese
30Chhang Dawa Sherpa2001–2013198230Nepal Nepali
3114Kim Chang-ho2005–2013197043South Korea Korean
322002–2014196845Spain Spanish
3315Radek Jaroš1998–2014196450Czech Republic Czech
34/3516/17Nives Meroiurl=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/nives-meroi-and-romano-benet-summit-annapurna-their-14th-8000er.htmltitle=Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summit Annapurna, their 14th 8000erwork=PlanetMountain.comaccess-date=2017-05-11language=en}}196155Italy Italian
34/3516/17url=http://www.delo.si/zgodbe/nedeljskobranje/slovenec-s-15-osemtisocaka.htmltitle=Slovenec s 15. osemtisočakawork=Delo.siaccess-date=2017-05-11language=sl}}196255Italy Italian / Slovenia Slovenian
361998–2017196452Slovakia Slovak
3718Azim Gheychisaz2008–2017198137Iran Iranian
38Ferran Latorre1999–2017197046Spain Spanish
3919Òscar Cadiach1984–2017195264Spain Spanish
40Kim Mi-gon2000–2018197345South Korea Korean
41Sanu Sherpa2006–2019197544Nepal Nepali
42Nirmal Purjaurl=http://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/nirmal-purja-summits-5th-eight-thousander-in-12-days-ends-1st-phase-of-project-possibletitle=Nirmal Purja summits 5th eight-thousander in 12 days, ends 1st phase of 'Project Possible'date=May 24, 2019publisher=Dreamwanderlust.com.comauthor=Dream Wanderlustaccess-date=May 26, 2019}}198336UKBritish
43Mingma Gyabu Sherpa2010–2019198930Nepal Nepali
44Kim Hong-binurl=https://www.timesunion.com/sports/article/South-Korean-missing-after-fall-while-scaling-16325874.phpauthor=Munir Ahmedtitle=South Korean missing after fall while scaling Pakistani peakwork=Times Uniondate=20 July 2021access-date=2021-07-20archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210720123713/https://www.timesunion.com/sports/article/South-Korean-missing-after-fall-while-scaling-16325874.phparchive-date=20 July 2021url-status=dead}}196457South Korea Korean
45Nima Gyalzen Sherpa2004–2022198537Nepal Nepali
46Dong Hong Juan2015–2023198142China Chinese
47Kristin Harila2021–2023198637Norway Norwegian
48url=https://time.news/sophie-lavaud-first-french-mountaineer-to-climb-all-the-peaks-over-8000-m-on-the-planet-liberation/title=Sophie Lavaud, first French mountaineer to climb all the peaks over 8,000 m on the planet – Liberationwork=Time Newsdate=26 June 2023access-date=2023-06-28 }}196855Swiss Swiss / France French / Canada Canadian
49Tunç Fındık2001–2023197251Turkey Turkish
50Tenjen Lama Sherpadate=2023-07-27last=Arnettefirst=Alantitle=K2 2023 Coverage: Kristin Harila gets K2 for her Last 8000erurl=https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2023/07/27/k2-2023-coverage-kristin-harila-gets-k2-for-her-last-8000er/access-date=2023-07-27website=alanarnette.comlanguage=en}}date=2023-07-27author=Gopal Sharmatitle=Norwegian woman, Nepali sherpa become world's fastest to climb all 14 tallest peaksurl=https://www.reuters.com/world/norwegian-woman-nepali-sherpa-become-worlds-fastest-climb-all-14-tallest-peaks-2023-07-27/access-date=2023-07-28website=Reuterslanguage=en}}Nepal Nepali
51Gelje Sherpaurl=https://everestchronicle.com/gelje-sherpa-joins-the-14-peak-club/title= Gelje Sherpa joins the 14 peak club with summit on Cho Oyu; Nima Rinji sets youngest climber recordpublisher=everestchronicle.comdate= 6 October 2023access-date=2023-10-24}}url=https://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/after-k2-in-winter-gelje-sherpa-aims-to-become-the-youngest-to-climb-all-14-8kstitle=After K2 in Winter, Gelje Sherpa (28) aims to become the youngest to climb all 14 8Ksauthor=Dream Wanderlustpublisher=DreamWanderlust.comdate=30 March 2021access-date=2023-11-02}}30Nepal Nepali
52Chris Warner1999–2023196558USA American
5320Marco Camandona2000–2024197054Italy Italian
54Naoki Ishikawadate=7 October 2024title=写真家・石川直樹さん、ヒマラヤ8000m峰全14座を制覇…最後のシシャパンマに登頂url=https://www.yomiuri.co.jp/national/20241007-OYT1T50135/archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20241202214817/https://www.yomiuri.co.jp/national/20241007-OYT1T50135/publisher=Yomiuri Shimbunarchive-date=2024-12-02access-date=2025-03-08}}197747Japan Japanese
54Tracee Metcalfelast=Benavidesfirst=Angeladate=2024-10-07title=Tracee Metcalfe Becomes First U.S. Woman to Climb the World's Highest Peaks » Explorersweburl=https://explorersweb.com/tracee-metcalfe-becomes-first-u-s-woman-to-climb-the-worlds-highest-peaks/access-date=2024-10-09website=Explorersweb}}50USA American
5421Sirbaz Khan2017–4 October 2024198737PAK Pakistani
54Dawa Gyalje Sherpa?–4 October 2024Nepal Nepali
5422Mingma Gyalje Sherpa?–4 October 2024Nepal Nepali
5923url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/seven-summit-treks-announce-100-summit-success-on-shisha-pangmaarchive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20241105152635/https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/seven-summit-treks-announce-100-summit-success-on-shisha-pangmatitle=Seven Summit Treks announces 100% summit success on Shisha Pangmapublisher=thehimalayantimes.comdate=2024-10-09archive-date=2024-11-05access-date=2024-10-09language=en}}196460Italy Italian
59Naoko Watanabe [ja]date=title=Face the Mountains, Face Yourself: Watanabe Naoko / Mountaineer, Nurseurl=https://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/shows/2105181/archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250206103601/https://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/shows/2105181/publisher=NHKarchive-date=6 February 2025access-date=6 February 2025 }}198142Japan Japanese
59Adrian Lazadate=2023-05-30title=Reuşită în Himalaya. Adrian Laza, alt optmiar cucerit. "Este un alt fel de om. Nu face parte din această lume" FOTOurl=https://adevarul.ro/stiri-locale/piatra-neamt/reusita-in-himalaya-adrian-laza-alt-optmiar-2271473.htmlaccess-date=2024-10-09website=adevarul.rolanguage=ro}}196360Romania Romanian
59Pasang Nurbu Sherpadate=2023-09-22title=Tenjen, Ming Temba, And Pasang Nurbu Sherpa Completed Ascent Of Mt Manasluurl=https://tourismmail.com/news/detail/102716/access-date=2025-02-28website=Tourism Maillanguage=en}}Nepal Nepali
59Shehroze Kashiflast=first=date=2024-10-09title=Shehroze Kashif sets record as youngest Pakistani to summit top 14 peaksurl=https://tribune.com.pk/story/2501668/shehroze-kashif-sets-record-as-youngest-pakistani-to-summit-all-14-peaksaccess-date=2025-02-28website=The Express Tribunelanguage=en}}200222PAK Pakistani
59url=https://przegladsportowy.onet.pl/wspinaczka-sportowa/pierwsza-polka-z-korona-himalajow-i-karakorum-to-sie-naprawde-stalo-brawo/l0sk2zqauthor=Maciej Skorupatitle=Pierwsza Polka z Koroną Himalajów i Karakorum! To się naprawdę stało, brawo!publisher=przegladsportowy.onet.pldate=2024-10-09access-date=2024-10-09language=pl}}Poland Polish
59Adriana Brownlee2021–9 October 2024200123UK British
59Nima Rinji Sherpalast=first=date=2024-10-09title=Nima Rinji becomes world's youngest to scale all 14 peaksurl=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/nima-rinji-becomes-worlds-youngest-to-scale-all-14-peaksaccess-date=2024-10-09website=The Himalayan Timeslanguage=en}}200618Nepal Nepali
59Alasdair McKenzie2022–9 October 2024200420France French / UK British
59Alina Pekovadate=2024-10-09title=More than a dozen newcomers to the list of climbers with all 14 eight-thousandersurl=https://abenteuer-berg.de/en/more-than-a-dozen-newcomers-to-the-list-of-climbers-with-all-14-eight-thousanders/access-date=2024-10-11website=abenteuer-berg.delanguage=en}}Russia Russian
59Ko-Erh Tseng?–9 October 2024ROC Taiwanese
70Mingtemba Sherpa2013-2024Nepal Nepali
71Tejan Gurung2022-2024Nepal Nepali / UK British
72Pasang Tendi2011-2024Nepal Nepali
73Uta Ibrahimi2017-2025198342Kosovo Kosovo
74Saško Kedev2009-2025196263Macedonia Macedonian
75Afsane Hesamifard2021-2025197649Iran Iranian
76Chhiring Sherpa?-2025Nepal Nepali

Disputed ascents

Claims have been made for summiting all 14 peaks for which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent; the disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses in the table below. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered a definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases (e.g. AdventureStats.com). The Eberhard Jurgalski List is also another important source for independent verification of claims to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.

Name and detailsPeriod climbing
eight-thousandersBornAgeNationality
(Lhotse 1997)
His partner Sergio Martini reclimbed Lhotse in 2000 to verify his 14, see above.1983–1998195246Italy Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990){{cite weblast = AdventureStats.netfirst = Official recordstitle = Climbers that have summited 10 to 13 of the 14 Main-8000ersurl = http://www.adventurestats.com/tables/10-13_8000er.shtml
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma (West) 2000, Broad Peak 1995)last = Russianclimb.comfirst = Mountaineering World of Russia & CIStitle = Vladislav Terzyul, List of ascentsurl = http://www.russianclimb.com/persons/terzyul.html
Oh Eun-sun (Kangchenjunga 2009)
As the potential first female climber of all 14, this dispute was followed internationally.1997–2010196644South Korea Korean
(Shishapangma 2012)
Pauner acknowledged his uncertainty as it was dark; said he might reclimb.2001–2013196350Spain Spanish
Zhang Liang (Shishapangma 2018)
Suspected the 2018 Chinese Shishapangma expedition stopped at central summit.2000–2018196454China Chinese

Verification issues

A recurrent problem with verification is the confirmation that the climber reached the true peak of the eight-thousander. Eight-thousanders present unique problems in this regard as they are so infrequently summited, their summits have not yet been exhaustively surveyed, and summiting climbers are often suffering the extreme altitude and weather effects of being in the death zone.

Cho Oyu for example, is a recurrent problem eight-thousander as its true peak is a small hump about a thirty minutes walk into the large flat summit plateau that lies in the death zone. The true peak is often obscured in very poor weather, and this led to the disputed ascent (per the table above) of British climber, Alan Hinkes (who has refused to re-climb the peak). Shishapangma is another problem peak because of its dual summits, which despite being close in height, are up to two hours climbing time apart and require the crossing of an exposed and dangerous snow ridge. When Hawley judged that Ed Viesturs had not reached the true summit of Shishapangma (which she deduced from his summit photos and interviews), he then re-climbed the mountain to definitively establish his ascent.

In a May 2021 interview with the New York Times, Jurgalski pointed out further issues with false summits on Annapurna I (a long ridge with multiple summits), Dhaulagiri (misleading false summit metal pole), and Manaslu (additional sharp and dangerous ridge to the true summit, like Shishapangma), noting that of the existing 44 accepted claims (as per the table earlier), at least 7 had serious question marks (these were in addition to the table of disputed ascents), and even noting that "It is possible that no one has ever been on the true summit of all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks".

In July 2022, Jurgalski posted conclusions of the team's research (the wider team being of Rodolphe Popier and Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database, and Damien Gildea, Federico Bernardi, and Thaneswar Guragai). According to their analysis, only three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja have stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders, and no female climber had yet done so. Viesturs is also the first to have done so without the use of oxygen. Jurgalski allowed for the fact that they had deliberately not stood on the true summit of Kangchenjunga out of religious respect. The team has not formally published their work, and according to Popier, they had not decided about "the best respectful form to present it".

Proposed expansion

In 2012, to relieve capacity pressure and overcrowding on the world's highest mountain, greater restrictions were placed on expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest. To address the growing capacity constraints, Nepal lobbied the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (or UIAA) to reclassify five subsidiary summits (two on Lhotse and three on Kanchenjunga), as standalone eight-thousanders, while Pakistan lobbied for a sixth subsidiary summit (on Broad Peak) as a standalone eight-thousander. See table below for list of all subsidiary summits of eight-thousanders.

In 2012, the UIAA initiated the ARUGA Project, with an aim to see if these six new 8000. m-plus peaks could feasibly achieve international recognition. The proposed six new eight-thousander peaks have a topographic prominence above 60. m, but none would meet the wider UIAA prominence threshold of 600. m (the lowest prominence of the existing 14 eight-thousanders is Lhotse, at 610. m). Critics noted that of the six proposed, only Broad Peak Central, with a prominence of 181 m, would even meet the 150. m prominence threshold to be a British Isles Marilyn. The appeal noted the UIAA's 1994 reclassification of Alpine four-thousander peaks used a prominence threshold of 30. m, amongst other criteria; the logic being that if 30. m worked for 4,000. m summits, then 60. m is proportional for 8,000. m summits.

, there has been no conclusion by the UIAA and the proposals appear to have been set aside.

Proposed new eight-thousanderHeight
(m)Prominence
(m)Dominance
(Prom / Height)
as a %url=http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/dominance-mainmenu-178.htmlpublisher =8000ers.comauthor=Eberhard Jurgalskiauthor-link=:de:Eberhard Jurgalskiaccess-date=23 November 2018title=Dominancequote= Accordingly, the author introduced altitude classes (AC) and a proportional prominence, which he named orometrical dominance (D). D is calculated easily but fittingly: (P/Alt) x 100. Thus, it indicates the percentage of independence for every elevation, no matter what the altitude, prominence or mountain type it is. From a scientific point of view, altitude could be seen as the thesis, prominence as the antithesis, whereas dominance would be the synthesis.}}
Broad Peak Central80111812.26B2
Kangchenjunga W-Peak (Yalung Kang)85051351.59C1
Kangchenjunga S-Peak84761161.37C2
Kangchenjunga C-Peak8473630.74C2
Lhotse C-Peak I (Lhotse Middle)8410650.77C2
Lhotse Shar8382720.86C2
K 2 SW-Peak8580300.35D1
Lhotse C-Peak II8372370.44D1
Everest W-Peak8296300.36D1
Yalung Kang Shoulder8077400.49D1
Kangchenjunga SE-Peak8150300.37D1
K 2 P. 8134 (SW-Ridge)8134350.43D1
Annapurna C-Peak8013490.61D1
Nanga Parbat S-Peak8042300.37D1
Annapurna E-Peak7986650.81C2
Shisha Pangma C-Peak8008300.37D1
Everest NE-Shoulder8423190.23D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle III8383130.16D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle III8327100.12D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle II8307120.14D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle I8290100.12D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle II8282250.30D2

Notes

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