Yuanlingshan

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Traditional Chinese round collar gown

title: "Yuanlingshan" type: doc version: 1 created: 2026-02-28 author: "Wikipedia contributors" status: active scope: public tags: ["hanfu", "robes-and-cloaks"] description: "Traditional Chinese round collar gown" topic_path: "general/hanfu" source: "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yuanlingshan" license: "CC BY-SA 4.0" wikipedia_page_id: 0 wikipedia_revision_id: 0

::summary Traditional Chinese round collar gown ::

::data[format=table title="Infobox Chinese"]

Field	Value
p	Yuánlǐngshān
l	Round collar shirt
lang1	English
lang1_content	Round collar robe
p2	Yuánlǐngpáo
p3	Pánlǐngpáo
t2	圓領袍
s2	圆领袍
t4	盤領袍
s4	盘领袍
pic	[[File:Figures in a cortege, tomb of Li Xian, Tang Dynasty.jpg
piccap	Men wearing yuanlingpao, Tang dynasty painting, 706 AD.
t	圓領衫
s	圆领衫
l2	Round collar robe/ Round collar gown
pic2	[[File:Mingshichangao.jpg
piccap2	Woman wearing a yuanlingshan with a skirt, Ming dynasty
::

Quling () refers to clothing with a round or arc-shaped neckline, which is one of the important forms of Hanfu. Yuanlingshan falls under this category.The origins of Yuanlingshan are currently unknown. However, current research suggests that Quling existed during the Shang Dynasty, so Yuanlingshan existed before the Western Han Dynasty.

The zh is an article of formal attire primarily worn by men, but women can also wear them. In the Tang dynasty, the zh could be transformed into the zh using buttons.

There are specific forms of zh and zh named for their decorations and construction; for example, the , also called for short, zh, , , and .

Terminology

The term zh literally translates to "round collar shirt", consisting of the Chinese characters , which literally translates to "round collar" and , literally translated as "shirt".

The term zh literally translates to "round collar robe (or gown)", consisting of the Chinese characters zh and . zh is an abbreviation for the term , which is literally translated as "robe" or "gown".

The term or simply refers to a specific variation of zh characterized by a bottom horizontal band attached at the knee level, while following the overall form of the zh, a long robe.

The term is a generic term referring to clothing adorned with a rank badge known as , which is often a mandarin square or roundels, to indicate its wearer's rank. Such garments were typically worn by government officials.

When a zh or zh is decorated with Chinese dragons called or decorated with decorations, including roundels or square rank badges, the generic term zh or mangfu is applied respectively depending on the number of dragon-claws used and the time period.{{NoteTag|A Chinese dragon can be found with 3, 4 or 5 claws. From ancient times to the Song dynasty, Chinese dragons were typically depicted with 3 claws. From the Ming dynasty, a Chinese dragon was defined as having 5 claws while the 4-clawed dragon was referred to as mang (python). There is a clear difference between the Dragon robe and mangfu. See page Mangfu, Dragon robe, Japanese dragon for more details.}}

History

Before and during the Han Dynasty

The origin of zh is currently unknown. However, current research suggests that zh existed during the Shang Dynasty, at this time usually used as outerwear. By the Zhou Dynasty, zh was already commonly used as military uniform, and in daily life as outerwear and underwear, and subsequent dynasties inherited this practice. It is known that zh was used as both outerwear and underwear during the Western Han Dynasty. But more often, it is mainly used as underwear, but children and women often wear it as outerwear. Starting from the Eastern Han Dynasty, although zh was also used as underwear, it has returned to being used as outerwear more and more frequently, until it became one of the common outerwear in the Wei and Jin Dynasties. The collars of the Han dynasty zh were not turned on both sides and their edges were similar to the styles worn in the Sui and Tang dynasties. It was also during the early years of the Han dynasty that the shape of the zh worn in the later dynasties, such as in the Ming dynasties, started to develop. File:Confucius Goes to Meet Laozi - Partial -P1.jpg|A child wearing zh and a gentleman, late Western Han Dynasty.

Wei, Jin, Northern, and Southern dynasties / Six Dynasties

Main article: Hufu

According to the History of the Southern Dynasties, the clothing of the Hu people was a long robe with Tight sleeves, while the Western Wei murals show a round collar, a double-breasted front, and a long robe with narrow sleeves.This type of clothing with a double-breasted collar and narrow sleeves appeared in the Western Zhou Dynasty and continued into the following dynasties. Therefore, current scholars believe that the round-necked clothing of the Hu people was influenced by the military uniforms of the Qin and Qin Dynasty. As time went by, a round-necked garment with the obvious characteristics of the narrow-sleeved long robe of the Qin and Qin Dynasty military uniform was formed, but with national characteristics and tailoring system.

Influence of the Xianbei

When the zh migrated to the Central Plains, their dressing culture influenced the clothing culture of the Han people in the region.These northern nomads, including the Xianbei, also introduced new clothing styles, including the , a type of crotch-length long jacket. The zh had either a round or snug (plunged) collar, tight sleeves, and less overlap than the traditional zh, which allowed for greater freedom of movement, especially for horse riding, and strongly impacted Chinese fashion. [[File:Pottery Figurine of Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties (10369962173).jpg|thumb|222x222px|[[Panling Lanshan|Panling lanshan]], Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties]] The Northern Wei dynasty was marked by cultural integration between the Xianbei and the Han Chinese. The Xianbei ruling elites adopted Chinese clothing and Chinese customs, while the Han Chinese started to integrate some of the Xianbei's nomadic style clothing, including high boots and narrow-sleeved zh and zh into Han clothing. In this period, the zh worn by unearthed terracotta warriors were closed in the zh-style instead of zh-style, reflecting its zh characteristics. Since the Northern Wei dynasty, the shapes of the Han Chinese's zh also started to be influenced by the zh-style robe, which originated in Western Asia and was then spread to the East through the Sogdians of Central Asia.

In the Northern and Southern dynasties, the zh of the Xianbei was localized by the Han Chinese, resulting in a loss of its association with zh and developed into a new form of zh, called zh. This evolution was achieved through the addition of a new seam structure called , which aligned with the traditional zh style and followed the Han Chinese's zh robe. File:Northern Wei Pottery Acrobat Figure (10100412353).jpg|Yuanlingpao worn by an acrobat figure, Northern Wei File:Shanxi Museum - coffin paintings.JPG|Women wearing yuanlingshan with skirt, Northern Wei, Datong File:Fresco from the Tomb of Lou Jui (婁叡).jpg|Xianbei men wearing quekua in the form yuanlingpao, Fresco from the Tomb of Lou Rui, Northern Qi (550-577 AD) File:Tomb of Northern Qi Dynasty in Jiuyuangang, Xinzhou, Mural 11.jpg|Xianbei men wearing quekua in the form of yualingpao and the lapel gown, Northern Qi

Influence of the Sogdians

::figure[src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/32/Funerary_bed_for_Sogdian_tradesman_An_Qie,_Xi’an,_showing_dancer_performing_the_Sogdian_Whirl.jpg" caption="Sogdian wearing their Sogdian-style yuanlingpao, 579 AD"] ::

The Sogdians and their descendants, mostly from the merchant class, who lived in China during this period also wore a form of knee-length, zh-style kaftan that retained their own ethnic characteristics but also showed some influences from East Asia, including Chinese and early Turkic influences. Due to the influence and the demands of the Chinese population, most Sogdian attire in China had to be closed to the right in the zh-style. Their kaftan would often be buttoned up to the neck, forming a round collar. Occasionally, the collar or lower button would be undone to form lapel robes, a style sometimes referred to as . This dressing custom of wearing zh-style robes was later inherited and developed into the zh of the subsequent Tang and Sui dynasties.

Sui and Tang dynasties, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period

In the Tang dynasty, the descendants of the Xianbei and the other non-Chinese people who ruled northern China from 304 – 581 AD lost their ethnic identity and became Chinese; the term Han referred to all people of the Tang dynasty instead of describing the population ruled by the Xianbei elites during the Northern dynasties.

The zh and zh, tied with a belt commonly made of leather at the waist, became a typical form of fashion for both men and women during the Tang dynasty, as it was fashionable for women to dress like men in this period. Both garments became the main form of clothing for men as well. Both the zh and zh of this period had a long, straight back and front with a border at the collar. The front and back of the garments each had a piece of fabric attached for tying the clothing around the waist. The sleeves could be tight or loose, with tight sleeves designed to facilitate ease of movements. Trousers were worn under the zh. Some women also wore zh under their zh. File:Tang cavalier oiseleur.jpeg|A male rider wearing a yuanlingshan, Tang dynasty File:Prince Zhanghuai's tomb, eunuchs.JPG|Eunuchs wearing yuanlingpao with loose sleeves, Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD File:Li Xian's tomb, palace ladies.jpg|Women (middle and right) wearing yuanlingpao with tight and narrow long sleeves, Tang dynasty tomb, 706 AD File:Anonymous-Astana Graves Servant Girl1.jpg|Servant girl wearing a yuanlingpao with loose sleeves, Tang dynasty painting, mid-8th century AD File:Anonymous-Astana Graves Servant Girl2.jpg|Servant girl with loose sleeves yuanlingpao, Tang dynasty, mid-8th century AD File:Tang Painted Pottery Figure (9833481494).jpg|Woman cross-dressing; she is wearing a banbi under her yuanlingpao; Tang dynasty File:TangYizong.jpg|Emperor Yizong of Tang, late Tang dynasty File:王處直墓壁畫5.jpg|Tomb of Wang Chuzhi, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period File:Tang court playing Polo.jpg|Polo players wearing yuanlingpao with tight sleeves on horseback, Tang dynasty

One distinctive feature of men's clothing during the Tang dynasty was a horizontal band, which could also be attached to the lower region of the zh. Tang dynasty scholars and government officials wore long, red zh with long sleeves, accompanied by headwear called zh. In 630 during the 4th year of Zhen Guan, colour regulations for the zh of the officials were decreed: purple for the 3rd and 4th rank officials; bright red for the 5th rank officials; green for the 6th and 7th rank officials; and blue for the 8th and 9th officials.In the Kaiyuan era (713 – 741 AD), slaves and the common soldiers also started to wear the scholar's zh. File:安元壽墓拄仗給使圖.jpg|Panling lanshan, Tang dynasty File:Mourning attendant, Tang Dynasty.jpg|Mourning attendant wearing panling lanshan, Tang Dynasty File:韋貴妃墓儀衛圖.jpg|A Tang dynasty man (middle) wearing a panling lanshan, notice the large horizontal band at the bottom of the robe.

Foreign influences

Main article: Hufu, Fanlingpao

::figure[src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7e/Tang_Female_Pottery_Musician_Playing_Cymbals.jpg" caption="Yuanlingpao}} decorated with borders (sleeves and front), a Central Asian influence, Tang dynasty"] ::

In the Tang dynasty, it was also popular for people to use fabrics, including brocade, to decorate the collars, sleeves and front of the zh; this practice of clothing decoration is known as "partial decorations of gowns" and was influenced by the Sogdians of Central Asia, who had entered China since the Northern and Southern dynasties period. Influenced by foreign cultures, some zh could have a band of fabric decorated with Central Asian roundels which would run down at the center of the robe as a form of partial decoration.

It was also popular to wear zh. Almost all figurines and mural paintings depicting female court attendants dressed in men's clothing are wearing zh. The zh which was popular in this period was the clothing worn by the Tartars and the people who lived in the Western regions, which was brought from the Silk Road. Robes with double overturned lapels and tight-fitting sleeves were known as zh, which originated from Central Asia. During this period, the zh could be turned into a zh under the influence of zh by unbuttoning the robes, while the zh could be also be turned back into a zh when buttoned. In some unearthed pottery figures wearing zh dating from the Tang dynasty, it was found that the zh had three buttons on the collar. After the High Tang dynasty period, the influences of zh progressively started to fade and the clothing started to become increasingly loose.

Song dynasty

During the Song dynasty, the official attire worn by Song court officials was the zh with long, loose and broad sleeves. The colours of the zh were also regulated based on the official's ranks. The zh had a large overlapping region being held down by a broad strip of fabricand a long line which divided the front part of the gown. Kerchief (typically zh), leather belt, and , black hide boots or shoes, would be worn by the court officials as accessories. File:B Song Dynasty Cao Empress Sitting with Maids.JPG|Maids of a Song dynasty empress wearing yuanlingpao File:Male Buddhist Donor, Northern Sung Dynasty.jpg|Northern Song Male Buddhist donor with a loose-sleeved dark yuanlingpao File:Emperor Taizong of Song.tif|Emperor Taizong of Song wearing a very large-sleeved yuanlingpao File: Renzong.jpg|Emperor Renzong of Song wearing a very large-sleeved yuanlingpao

Liao, Jin and Western Xia dynasties

Liao dynasty

Main article: Fashion in the Liao dynasty

Khitan men wore the Khitan-style zh with a belt at their waist and trousers tucked into felt boots. The Khitan-style zh differed from those worn by the Han Chinese in terms of design and construction: the Khitan-style zh had both back and side slits, with the side slits located in the lower region of the robes. The back slits facilitated horse-riding and protected wearers' legs from the cold. Some of them had no slits. The Khitan-style zh also had narrow sleeves, was closed on the left side, and was unadorned. File:Preparing for hunting, mural from Tomb in Aohan, Liao Dynasty.jpg|Khitan men wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao, Liao dynasty File:Guard, Fresco, Liao Dynasty, Chifeng Museum.jpg|A Khitan guard wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao, Liao dynasty. File:Khitan wooden hunter figurines.jpg|Khitan men wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao

Jin dynasty

File:Jin Dynasty Tomb of Zou Fu, 1199 AD 03.jpg|Men wearing yuanlingpao, Jurchen Jin dynasty

Western Xia

File:Xixia Cave Art (41991491571).jpg|Men wearing round collar robes, Western Xia mural File:西夏男供養人像.png|Western Xia men wearing tight-sleeved yuanlingpao

Yuan dynasty

Main article: Fashion in the Yuan dynasty

Ming dynasty

After the establishment of the Ming dynasty, the emperor restored the old system of the Tang and Song dynasties. During the Ming dynasty, the zh and zh were also the most common form of attire for all genders, including officials and nobles. The zh and/or zh were not typically worn alone; a sleeveless vest called zh and an inner robe (either the zh or zh) was commonly worn underneath.

The difference between the zh or zh of the civilians and of the officials and nobles was the addition of a zh (either a mandarin square or roundels rank badge) and the fabric materials used. The clothing of the Ming dynasty was predominantly red, although, there were strict colour regulations depending on the ranks of officials. During an Imperial Funeral, Ming officers wore a grey-blue zh without a Mandarin square, and zh. This set was known as .

The Ming dynasty zh and zh were typically characterized by the "cross-plane structure", with the back and front being bounded by the middle seam of the sleeves. The front and back were symmetrical and the left and right were also largely symmetrical; there is a central line acting as the axis of this symmetry. It has a round collar without a high-standing collar which is secured with a button; it overlaps on the front side and closes at the right side in the zh-style, which follows the traditional zh system. It also has side slits on the right and left side. The sleeves of the zh are mostly in a style called , which means the sleeves are large but curved to form a narrow sleeve cuff, to facilitate movements and be more practical in daily life. Men's zh and zh also have side panels called at the side slits to conceal the undergarments. These side panels are also referred to as "side ears" which are unique to the Ming dynasty's zh; this specific structure reflects the combination of zh and attire of the Mongols, the ethnic minority. The "side ear" also allows for greater ease of movement and can increase the looseness of the robe. File:A mandarin's wife in ceremonial costume. Ming. Colours on silk. Toulon Asian Art Museum.jpg|A noblewomen's yuanlingpao, Ming dynasty File:Mingnoblewoman1.jpg File:Artifact hanfu6.jpg|Unearthed Ming dynasty artefact File:A mandarin in court robe.jpg|Ming dynasty court official File:MingXianzong1.jpg|Ming Emperor wearing round-collar robes decorated with dragon roundels. This form of dress is called the longpao (i.e., the dragon robes). File:Ming Silk Robe, Dingling Museum (9863967836).jpg|Round collared robe, from the Tomb of Emperor Wanli, Ming dynasty

Qing dynasty

During the Qing dynasty, the Manchu rulers enforced the zh policy along with 10 exemptions. Among the exempted people were the Han Chinese women, who were allowed to continue wearing the Ming-style zh, and on-stage theatre performers. While zh was worn in the dominant sphere of society - ritual and official locations, zh continued to be worn in the subordinate societal sphere, such as in women's quarters and theatres. File:六十七代衍聖公繼配葉夫人衣冠像.jpg File:六十九代衍聖公元配王夫人衣冠像.jpg File:MET 62 220 0486.jpg|alt=Yuanlingpao (court robe), Qing dynasty, 19th century.|Yuanlingpao (court robe), Qing dynasty, 19th century File:MET 45 86 2 F.jpeg|alt=A woman's wedding yuanlingshan, closes with buttons on the right side.|A woman's wedding yuanlingshan, also known as zh, closes with buttons on the right side. It was typically worn together with a skirt known as zh. File:MET 13230.jpg|A child's yuanlingpao, 19th century File:Hong Xiuquan's Silk Dragon Robe (10151794584).jpg|Hong Xiuquan's silk Dragon robe

Wedding garment{{Anchor|Wedding Garment}}

The zh of officials and nobles also served as a form of wedding attire for commoners. The groom wears a type of headwear known as zh and a zh of a 9th-rank official. The bride wears a type of headwear known as zh and a red zh or zh with a zh of a noblewoman.

Influence and derivatives{{Anchor|Influence and Derivatives}}

Korea

Dallyeong

::figure[src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a0/Museum_of_Traditional_Korean_Music_124.JPG" caption="dallyeong}} from the Museum of Traditional Korean Music, Korea"] ::

In Korea, the zh was introduced during the Tang dynasty and became known as the ko (; ). During the rule of Queen Jindeok of Silla, Kim Chunchu personally travelled to the Tang dynasty to request for clothing and belts and voluntarily accepted the official uniform system of the Tang dynasty, which included the ko among many other clothing items. Since then, the ko continued to be worn until the end of Joseon. In the late Goryeo period, under the reign of King U, the ko was adopted as an official ko when the official uniform system of the Ming dynasty was imported.

Wonsam

The initial shape of the ko worn by women from the 15th to 16th century was similar to the ko and included the use of a collar which was similar to the ko-style collar.

Japan

In Japan, the formal court attire for men and women was established by the start of the 8th century and was based on the court attire of the Tang dynasty. The round collared robe called in the , which was worn by the Japanese Emperors, and the noblemen, was adopted from the zh.

According to the Ming dynasty's Government letter against Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Ming Government bestowed on him a set of containing a red zh with zh mandarin square (), a dark blue , and a green .

Vietnam

Áo viên lĩnh

According to the book Weaving a realm by the Vietnam Center, the áo viên lĩnh (襖圓領), a 4-long flap robe with a round neck, was imported to Vietnam from China. However, this fashion gradually faded away from their daily lives due to the clothing reforms decreed by the Nguyen lords. File:Zhúlín dà shì chūshān tú 3.jpg|Men wearing áo viên lĩnh, painting from The Mahasattva Trúc Lâm Coming Out of the Mountains, 1363 File:Trang phục người Đàng Trong 1675 - Clothing of people of Đàng Trong, 1675.jpg|Áo viên lĩnh of Vietnamese people in Đàng Trong, 1675 File:Văn quan vinh quy đồ 2.jpg|Áo viên lĩnh in the Lê dynasty

Notes

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