Slab climbing

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Type of rock climbing route

title: "Slab climbing" type: doc version: 1 created: 2026-02-28 author: "Wikipedia contributors" status: active scope: public tags: ["types-of-climbing", "climbing-routes"] description: "Type of rock climbing route" topic_path: "general/types-of-climbing" source: "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slab_climbing" license: "CC BY-SA 4.0" wikipedia_page_id: 0 wikipedia_revision_id: 0

::summary Type of rock climbing route ::

| image1=Johnny Dawes on Poetry Pink.jpg|caption1=Johnny Dawes on Poetry Pink (E5 6b) | image2=Looking down the Devil's Slide - geograph.org.uk - 605840.jpg|caption2=Looking down the classic slab-route, The Devil's Slide (HS 4a), Lundy | image3=The Meltdown 8c+ 9a Twll Mawr Dinorwic Quarry Wales 2.png|caption3=Angus Kille on The Meltdown (9a), Twll Mawr | image4=El Capitan - Climbers.JPG |caption4=Multiple teams ascending the early slab pitches of El Capitan}} In rock climbing a slab climb (or friction climb) is a type of climbing route where the rock face is 'off-angle' and not fully vertical. While the softer angle enables climbers to place more of their body weight on their feet, slab climbs maintain the challenge by having smaller holds. Some of the earliest forms of rock climbing were on large easy-angled slabs encountered by climbers while mountaineering (e.g. the Idwal slabs in Wales or the Flatirons in Colorado), however, the introduction of advanced rubber-soled shoes enabled climbers to use the technique of 'smearing' to ascend steeper and blanker slabs.

Slab climbs on rock surfaces with good friction, such as granite or sandstone, emphasize the foot technique of 'smearing', and thus can have almost no hand holds for very hard routes. In contrast, slab climbs on rock surfaces with poorer friction, such as quartzite or slate, emphasize the foot-and-hand techniques of 'crimping' and 'edging' on small edges in the rock. Regardless of the surface, slab climbing emphasizes balance and body positioning, and is often considered a 'pure form' of rock climbing, less reliant on physical strength and power — and it is thus considered a core skill for novice climbers.

The lack of holds and features gives a greater sense of exposure and falls are painful due to scraping against the face, making slabs feel intimidating. Slab climbing can be confused with face climbing which is on vertical rock, with Tommy Caldwell telling Climbing in 2023, "you have to be able to stand there and let go without tipping over backwards", and Paige Classen adding "I would define slab as an angle, not a style".

California is particularly notable for its abundance of high-quality granite slabs (e.g., Suicide Rock), Dawes made the first free ascent of Indian Face and pioneered slab climbing on bolted sport climbing slate routes. One of the world's hardest slab climbs was The Meltdown , a 1980s Dawes project in Twll Mawr, that was only climbed by James Mchaffie in 2012. By 2024, it was joined by the two graded slab-routes of Cryptography (in Switzerland) and Disbelief (in Canada), as well as the neighboring line of The Dewin Stone at .

References

References

  1. (August 2022). "How to Rock Climb". [[Globe Pequot Press.
  2. (22 September 2021). "What Is Slab Climbing? + 7 Slab Climbing Technique TipsWhat Is Slab Climbing? + 7 Slab Climbing Technique Tips".
  3. Gaines, Bob. (31 January 2022). "Get Better At Slab Climbing—Master This Critical Skill".
  4. (August 2022). "How to Rock Climb". [[Globe Pequot Press.
  5. ACMG. (2023). "Climbing Guiding Manual". [[Association of Canadian Mountain Guides]].
  6. Cahill, Fitz. (8 June 2022). "Slab Climbing Is Hard".
  7. Lambert, Erik. (30 September 2008). "World's Hardest Trad Slab Climbed by James Pearson".
  8. (1 June 2020). "The Story of Britain's First E9 by Johnny Dawes".
  9. Lucas, James. (14 December 2023). "How Hard Can Slab Climbs Actually Get?".
  10. (27 January 2023). "These Are the World's Hardest Slab Climbs".

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