Muztagh Tower

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Mountain in Pakistan and China

title: "Muztagh Tower" type: doc version: 1 created: 2026-02-28 author: "Wikipedia contributors" status: active scope: public tags: ["mountains-of-gilgit-baltistan", "seven-thousanders-of-the-karakoram", "ultra-prominent-peaks-of-asia"] description: "Mountain in Pakistan and China" topic_path: "general/mountains-of-gilgit-baltistan" source: "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muztagh_Tower" license: "CC BY-SA 4.0" wikipedia_page_id: 0 wikipedia_revision_id: 0

::summary Mountain in Pakistan and China ::

::data[format=table title="Infobox mountain"]

FieldValue
nameMuztagh Tower

| | photo | MuztaghTower.jpg | | photo_caption | Muztagh Tower in 2004 | | elevation_m | 7276 | | elevation_ref | Ranked 90th | | prominence_m | 1710 | | prominence_ref | | | listing | | | location | Baltistan, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan Tashkurgan, Xinjiang, China, China–Pakistan border | | range | Karakoram | | map | Karakoram relief#Gilgit Baltistan#China Xinjiang Southern | | map_image | | | coordinates | | | coordinates_ref | | | first_ascent | 6 July 1956 by a British team | | easiest_route | glacier/snow/ice climb | ::

| name = Muztagh Tower

| photo = MuztaghTower.jpg | photo_caption = Muztagh Tower in 2004 | elevation_m = 7276 | elevation_ref = Ranked 90th | prominence_m = 1710 | prominence_ref = | listing = | location = Baltistan, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan Tashkurgan, Xinjiang, China, China–Pakistan border | range = Karakoram | map = Karakoram relief#Gilgit Baltistan#China Xinjiang Southern | map_caption = | map_size = | map_image= | label_position = | coordinates = | coordinates_ref = | topo = | first_ascent = 6 July 1956 by a British team | easiest_route = glacier/snow/ice climb Muztagh Tower (), also Mustagh Tower; Muztagh: icy mountain), is a mountain situated in Baltoro Muztagh, which is a segment of the Karakoram range. It straddles the border of the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China. Muztagh Tower is located between the basins of the Baltoro and Sarpo Laggo glaciers.

Early prominence

::figure[src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/da/Mustagh_Tower_1909.jpg" caption="Vittorio Sella's]] 1909 photograph of the Muztagh Tower, which was to inspire the first ascent"] ::

The Mustagh Tower gained attention through a photograph captured by Vittorio Sella during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2. The picture was taken from the upper Baltoro, from a vantage point located due southeast of the mountain. In this photograph, the twin summits of Mustagh Tower appeared perfectly aligned, giving the mountain the appearance of a slender tooth and making it seem extremely impregnable. This image was featured in a book on mountaineering in 1941 with the caption "The Last Citadel".

First and second ascents

Nearly five decades after Vittorio Sella's photograph was taken, in 1956, his image served as inspiration for two separate expeditions that raced to achieve the first ascent of Mustagh Tower. Interestingly, both teams discovered that the mountain's routes were less steep than what Sella's photograph had suggested. The British expedition, consisting of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Tom Patey and Ian McNaught-Davis, approached the peak from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side and successfully reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge on July 6.

Notable ascents and attempts

  • 1984: Northwest Ridge 2nd of route, 3rd of peak by Mal Duff, Tony Brindle, Jon Tinker and Sandy Allan (all UK).

  • 1990: The fourth ascent was made by Göran Kropp and Rafael Jensen.

  • 2008: On 24 August 2008, the Northeast Face was climbed by two Slovenian alpinists, Pavle Kozjek and Dejan Miškovič. They bivouacked on the crest after 17 hours of climbing. They decided not to go to the summit due to strong winds. Just after they started descending, Kozjek fell to his death.

  • 2012: On 25 August, 56 years after the first ascent of this mountain, three Russians made an ascent by the centre Northeast Face. Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Golovchenko and Alexander Lange reached the top and made a new route. The ascent lasted for 17 days.

References

;Notes

References

  1. "Prominent Karkoram peaks".
  2. "Muztagh Tower".
  3. Ullman, James Ramsey. (1941). "High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering". J. B. Lippincott Co..
  4. Curran, Jim. (1995). "K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain". Hodder & Stoughton.
  5. Hartog, J.H.. (1956). "The climbing of the Muztagh Tower". The Alpine Journal.
  6. Patey, Tom. (1971). "One Man's Mountains".
  7. Magnone, Guido. (1957). "The Muztagh Tower". Himalayan Journal.
  8. François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without a radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp.{{Neate-High Asia|pages=117-118}}
  9. Duff, Mal. (1985). "The Second Ascent of the Mustagh Tower". The Alpine Journal.
  10. Greig, Andrew. (1985). "Summit Fever: The Story of an Armchair Climber on the 1984 Mustagh Tower Expedition". Hutchinson.
  11. (2000). "Ultimate High: My Everest Odyssey". Discovery Channel.
  12. Nunn, Paul. (1991–92). "Karakoram 1990". The Alpine Journal.
  13. (2008-09-12). "Interview with Dejan Miškovič". Sport1.
  14. (2012-08-25). "Музтаг Тауэр 2012. Экспедиция ФАиС г.Москвы. Вершина!!!". Risk.ru.
  15. "Short film about ascent".

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mountains-of-gilgit-baltistanseven-thousanders-of-the-karakoramultra-prominent-peaks-of-asia