Chogolisa

---

title: "Chogolisa" type: doc version: 1 created: 2026-02-28 author: "Wikipedia contributors" status: active scope: public tags: ["mountains-of-gilgit-baltistan", "seven-thousanders-of-the-karakoram", "ultra-prominent-peaks-of-asia"] description: "Mountain in Pakistan" topic_path: "general/mountains-of-gilgit-baltistan" source: "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chogolisa" license: "CC BY-SA 4.0" wikipedia_page_id: 0 wikipedia_revision_id: 0

::summary Mountain in Pakistan ::

::data[format=table title="Infobox mountain"]

Field	Value
name	Chogolisa
native_name	ur
translation	Great Hunt
photo	Chogolisa.jpg
photo_caption	Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of K2
elevation_m	7665
elevation_ref
Ranked 36th
prominence_m	1624
prominence_ref
listing
range	Karakoram
location	Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
map	Pakistan#Gilgit Baltistan
map_caption	Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
map_image
map_size	270
label_position	left
coordinates
coordinates_ref
first_ascent	August 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I)
1958 (Chogolisa II)
easiest_route	Rock/snow/ice climb
::

| name = Chogolisa | native_name =ur | translation = Great Hunt | photo = Chogolisa.jpg | photo_caption = Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of K2 | elevation_m = 7665 | elevation_ref = Ranked 36th | prominence_m = 1624 | prominence_ref = | listing = | range = Karakoram | location = Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan | map = Pakistan#Gilgit Baltistan | map_caption = Location in Gilgit-Baltistan | map_image= | map_size = 270 | label_position = left | coordinates = | coordinates_ref = | first_ascent = August 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I) 1958 (Chogolisa II) | easiest_route = Rock/snow/ice climb Chogolisa ( derived from Chogo Ling Sa; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain located in the Karakoram range within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It is situated near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's tallest peaks.

Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest being its southwest face (Chogolisa I), which reaches an elevation of 7,665 m. On the northeast side, the second-highest peak stands at 7,654 m in height and was named "Bride Peak" by Martin Conway in 1892. NOTOC

Climbing history

In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7498 m from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record which wasn't beaten until 13 years later, when Mallory, Norton and Somervell reached 8200 m on the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition.

Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25, they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found.

On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top.

The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.

References

References

1. "Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences". peaklist.org.
2. Conway. (1894). "Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalayas". Unwin.
3. "Chogolisa/Bride Peak". Everest News.
4. Bolinder, Anders. (1968). "Mountain World 1966/7". George Allen and Unwin Ltd.
5. Diemberger. (1958). "Broad Peak and Chogolisa 1957". [[Himalayan Journal]].
6. Kuwabara, Takeo. (1959). "The First Ascent of Chogolisa". The Alpine Journal.
7. (August 20, 1958). "Japanese Conquer Mountain". The New York Times.
8. Kuwabara, Takeo. (1959). "Japanese Alpinists in the Himalaya".
9. Koblmüller, Eduard. (1976). "Chogolisa".

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